January is looming, and we all know what that means: A resolution to
lose weight and get healthy. Just like the 2015 declaration. And the one
before that.
What diet to choose this time? Low-fat? Low-carb? Gluten-free or
prehistoric? Or just throw out the scale and surrender to fate and
French fries?
Stop, take a breath and consider instead a seven-word alternative
offered by prominent food writer Michael Pollan that embraces clarity
and shuns extremism.
Here goes: Eat food, not too much, mostly plants.
Behind that advice is a wealth of scientific, medical and anecdotal
evidence as explored in the documentary "In Defense of Food," airing
9-11 p.m. EST Wednesday on PBS stations (check local listings).
Pollan is an amiable, engaging guide through a buffet line that includes
the how and why of the modern diet, the ever-shifting barrage of
confusing, conflicting decrees (Don't eat eggs! Eat eggs!) and, most
importantly, realistic alternatives to chew over.
"The more I worked on this issue, the more I realized that painting
things in black and white is not the way to help people move, because
people move incrementally," said Pollan, whose books include "In Defense
of Food: An Eater's Manifesto" and "The Omnivore's Dilemma."
"Relaxing about our eating is really important, too. I don't want to
make people more anxious about it," he added. "We already are made very
anxious."
But there is reason for concern. A sharp rise in U.S. obesity and
diabetes parallels our devotion to a diet heavy in meat, white flour and
fat.
And sugar: We consume about 1,000 percent more of it per day than we did
200 years ago, Dr. Robert Lustig , a professor at the University of California, San Francisco, says in "In Defense of Food."
Among the guidelines Pollan offers in the documentary:
— "When I say, 'Eat food,' I'm basically saying eat the kinds of things
that people have been eating for a long time," including meat, fish,
vegetables, fruit and grains, but everything in moderation.
— Avoid supermarket center aisles that harbor the processed foods that
Pollan labels "edible food-like substances" that don't deserve to be
called food. "If it came from a plant, eat it. If it was made in a
plant, don't," he says.
— Use smaller plates and glasses to reduce portions.
Pollan says his inclusion of meat — in limited quantities — hasn't made
his approach popular with carnivores who feel he's dissing their choices
or with vegetarians. But it reflects his approach to being a happy and
healthy eater.
"Absolutism in the quest for food is a huge mistake," he said.
Even those eager to change their diet face daunting challenges.
Processed foods are convenient, loaded with the salt, fat and sugar that
"really push our evolutionary buttons" and are backed by
multibillion-dollar marketing efforts, Pollan said.
And there are communities where residents have limited or no access to
affordable and nourishing food (although the correlation between bad
eating and such "food deserts" is more complicated than has been
discussed, Pollan contends).
Whatever the obstacles, he refuses to give Americans a pass when it comes to making better choices.
Start by dropping misguided ideas and self-imposed restrictions, Pollan
said. Food doesn't have to be local or even fresh to make the grade,
with frozen and canned vegetables good nutritional choices. And try
cooking instead of bringing home dinner in a fast-food box, even if it's
just once a week to start.
Homemade meals can be economical as well as healthy, he said. They do
take time and planning, but Pollan urges us to consider the payoff in
our well-being.
"Part of my argument is this is so important its worth making a
priority. When the (food) industry represents such an easy alternative,
it's very attractive. But you can't let them set the agenda for you," he
said.
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